No Pop Star whimsy, no copy and paste of the past in a summery colour palette.

The latest Kenzo by Nigo SS24 show leaves its mark and explores the influence of Japanese City Pop from the 70s and 80s, transporting it to contemporary Paris.
Suspended above the Seine, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance, Nigo transformed the Debilly Bridge into a long catwalk, with the background music of his favourite genre: a mix of pop, funk and soul called ‘City Pop‘, which also gives the show its name.

City Pop originated as an inspiration from Western music, which emerged in post-war Japan during the formative years of the Maison founder Kenzo Takada, between the 1970s and 1980s.
Kenzo’s SS24 combines elements of traditional Japanese tailoring with contemporary French-style details, creating a wardrobe that moves between East and West, past and future. Thus, traditional Uwagi Judo garments become workwear-inspired work jackets; the ancient Seigaiha wave print becomes a motif for indigo denim; kimono sleeves become an additional element of varsity jackets; while workwear style elements of the industrial world become fundamental to traditional Japanese slouchy.

Nigo’s vision in this collection is clear and linear, and he has demonstrated a great sensitivity to branding and iconography, creating a balance between elegance and casualness.

Nigo also reinforced the collection’s creative dialogue by involving his friend and Japanese artist Verdy, who presented a reinterpretation of the Kenzo logo in all-over typography, which he affixed to tailored lapel-less jackets and backpacks. French berets were enlarged, while typical Parisian bucket bags and booties embraced the Made in Japan logo.

Nigo proved once again that a designer’s work cannot be improvised and that it is not enough to put on an impressive show to make a difference.