Martine Rose, the designer who turned outsiders into trendsetters.
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Martine Rose's collections always express something "disconcerting" yet "reassuring" as they draw on silhoeutte, prints or styles already visited-sometimes hated, sometimes madly loved. Among his most iconic pieces is the soccer jersey designed "backwards," to which Rose and his early fanbase, is very fond of.

She will be the Guest Designer at Pitti Immagine Uomo 103.

Martine Rose is a British-Jamaican designer, founder of the eponymous menswear brand that has profoundly transformed men’s fashion.

She began designing clothes at a very young age, when the general menswear scene was essentially characterized by classic English man silhouettes, with the clutch pocket and blazer. She, chiseled in the London suburbs among subcultures, is inspired by the Ravers, Ultras, multi-ethnic communities that populate the neighborhoods of Brixton, Brick Lane, and her native Bethnal Green. But those she loves most are the people on the fringes of fashion. Those who do not bend to the dictates of the industry, at the cost of seeming anachronistic or strange.

He borrows the imagery of English soccer uniforms and the aesthetic symbols that identify “Dad Uncool” and Nerds, remixing them into a unique and unprecedented language all his own. She gives new meaning to the extravagance that characterizes every human being, regardless of whether they are part of a community or subculture.

Martine Rose’s collections always express something “disconcerting” yet “reassuring” as they draw on silhoeutte, prints or styles already visited-sometimes hated, sometimes madly loved. Among his most iconic pieces is the soccer jersey designed “distorted” to which Rose and his early fanbase, is very fond of. Fans wear teams’ tees inside out as a sign of protest, over some Daspo or penalty on the field deemed unfair, Martine Rose has reinterpreted this symbolism by making it a fashionable quirk.

In 2019, she reworked one of Nike’s most “anonymous” considered sneakers and literally “changed their connotations,” deforming their silhouette as if they had been hit from the inside with hammer blows; or she designed a T-Shirt that read Martine Rose is probably the best designer in the world,” aping Carlsberg’s (English Ultras’ identifying beer) Claim: “Probably the best beer in the world.”

This explosive mix of brazenness, irony, and attitude toward outsiders make Rose one of the world’s boldest and most brazen designers.

A myriad of trends has been born thanks to her: her work in the Menswear world is one of the most influential of the last decade, while remaining an underground brand.

Despite international awards and accolades, collaborations with designers like Demna Gvasalia, global brands like Balenciaga, Napapijri, Nike, Timberland, CAT, and the latest with Tommy Jeans, Martine Rose remains a subcultural brand. In an age when everything is for everyone, primarily fashion, she remains for the few. Some of her most “extreme” pieces are appreciated only by very few, and this has been part of her specific intention since she founded her eponymous brand:

I never wanted to be part of a big audience,” she has often stated during her interviews, “Anything mainstream, ever since I was little, has never interested me.”

Although since 2007 her core business has been focused mainly on men’s fashion, for the past few years she has opened to the women’s market with some exquisitely oversized silhouettes; although it would be more appropriate to speak of no-gender style: she does not – in fact – just adapt silhouettes according to sexuality, to cut and paste established references for one or the other gender.

Her designs, even the most extreme – such as extra-large pants or tailored “humped” jackets – derive from an interest in the interplay of proportions that lies above the shape of the body that must accommodate them.

Rose‘s fascination with the way “ordinary” people dress, the denizens of the “real country” who duly stay away from the catwalk lights and social events, have always inspired and characterized her style, especially today, where the fashion industry literally transcribes the lifestyle of Show Biz starlets and Influencers.

The only real way to understand Martine Rose‘s unconventional approach is just to look at one of her collections, or to attend one of her fashion shows – which often take place at times and places outside the fashion show circuit, such as in climbing centers or neighborhood markets, even at 1 a.m.

She will be the star of the upcoming Pitti Immagine Uomo 103 in Florence – January 10-13, 2023, where she will present – as Guest Designer – her Fall-Winter 2023-24 collection with a special event, in a space yet to be revealed.

Black Box is happy to present the first and exclusive collaboration between Martine Rose and Tommy Hilfiger:

Tommy Jeans x Martine Rose capsule collection Fall 2022.

A tongue-in-cheek and functional capsule collection that borrows the aesthetic of 90s Miami and mixes it with Streetwear silhouettes, bringing a contemporary twist to Tommy’s classic and Preppy style.

Tommy Jeans x Martine Rose plays on the “natural” colors of a typical West Coast sunset, mixing ultramarine blue with pale pink, yellow ochre with orange, in a very successful “Nostalgia 90s” operation.
The two brands – both born from subcultures – dialogue and blend seamlessly for an inclusive collection designed for all genders.

From the collection emerges the Cow Boy-style Denim Chaps, the Hawaiian shirt that mixes warm colors like orange, pink, and lilac in a print depicting an exotic beach, and the Tommy Hilfiger Preppy-style puffer.

Tommy Jeans x Martine Rose collection is now available

 

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