Jeremy Scott officially announces that he will leave his role as creative director of the Maison Moschino, a journey that began at the end of 2013.
Ten years that helped reinvigorate the image and fortunes of the Italian brand; the news leaves many questioning the future of the designer, of Franco Moschino‘s Maison and the reasons that led him to make this drastic decision.
Scott described his now former position as “a wonderful celebration of creativity and imagination”, hinting at future plans, about which he revealed nothing more. Ten years ago, he joined the Italian fashion house as successor to Rossella Jardini, taking up a legacy that was not an easy one: the designer, in fact, was carrying high the torch started by Franco Moschino, whose humour and lightness Jeremy Scott was able to capture with his playfulness and irony, re-establishing the brand at the top of the Aeffe Group’s sales.
The market reacted to Scott’s exit with striking approval, causing the parent company’s shares to rise 3.05% to close at EUR 1.15 on the Italian Stock Exchange.
A decision born of the times, then, made up of epochal transitions and transformations that are affecting the fashion world. For some time now, the big brands have been changing their skins to adapt to the logic of the market, in a sector that is purely focused on sales, and which puts customer demand above everything else.
Consumers who, at a time when minimalism, clean lines and tailoring are being rediscovered, may want something different, less garish and more chic. As Massimo Ferretti, president of the Aeffe group, commented: ‘the brand needs to transform, to be less playful and more chic, more subtle, perhaps someone with couture skills’.
It is clear from this statement that the artistic marriage that has gone on until now no longer has the same vision; Scott remains a visionary, strongly inspired by American Pop Art, and the brand now needs to be cleansed of its Gamecore aesthetic, to embrace something perhaps more expendable, certainly more homologated to all the other big fashion giants.
That Scott has not listened to the public in favour of his own creative flair? Probably. Nonetheless, his work will be remembered as the most extravagant and daring of recent years.
In this editorial we will take a quick excursus of his career at Moschino, with the most unforgettable collections ever.